After having explored the 3 best places to sail in Hong Kong waters, we began to look for picturesque overnight anchorages that provide good shelter and holding for extended trips. Hong Kong's "Golden Week" offered another opportunity to venture further afield. We set out with 2 boats for 4 days , pushed as far West as we could by a strong Easterly Monsoon - sailing towards the Soko Islands.
4 day sailing itinerary (100nm): Sai Kung - Deepwater Bay - Soko Islands - Sunshine Island (near Discovery Bay) - Victoria Harbour - Bluff Island - Sai Kung
The prevailing conditions for the long-weekend were a strong North-Easterly monsoon with 20 – 25kts winds, sunny and up to 2m swell coming off the South China Sea from the South East. This would make for a quick trip towards the South-Western corner of Hong Kong waters but an uncomfortable return leg.
We decided on a clockwise round-trip, using the more sheltered waters of Victoria Harbor, one of Hong Kong’s main attractions, to provide a smoother ride for the less seasoned crew on board….yes, it did involve a lot of motor-sailing in the end.
Anchorages needed to provide shelter from both wind and swell as well as return swell bouncing off the nearby coast.
Day 1: Sai Kung to Deepwater Bay
I mentioned this route in my last article as part of a 2 day trip. Once we left the confines of the aptly named Shelter Cove, both wind and swell pick up a notch and after passing the Ninepin Group of Islands, we were fully exposed to the South China sea until Beaufort and Po Toi Island.
Once past the Stanley Peninsular, our course took a northwesterly heading and the following sea provided a beautiful ride past Stanley and Repulse Bay all the way into Deepwater Bay for the night.
This bay is popular with the rich and famous for a ‘quick day out’ and always has an array of mega yachts on display. It would have to be the most expensive mooring spot … luckily its free and you get dinner and a show as the sleek yachts come and go.
Middle Island, also home to a branch of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club, protects this bay from any south-easterly swell, yet easterly winds can still funnel through the gap between the island and Hong Kong Island. We got some gusts of 35kts that night, but the ground is muddy and holding is good. Only a southerly breeze and swell would make this anchorage uncomfortable, unless you can tie up at the club.
#Day 2: Deepwater Bay to Soko Island
Almost immediately after departing the anchorage and hoisting the sails in the morning, the first challenge was to cross the busy East Lama Channel, a major thoroughfare for some serious tonnage into Hong Kong’s main container terminal at Tsing Yi.
335m of containership doesn’t stop for anyone in a rush and there seems to be a constant chain of them moving by.
They move along at 8 kts as per AIS, so timing your crossing though that channel requires some quick math … and a good push from Mr Yanmar.
Once on the other side, it was the most fantastic downwind sail to the Soko Islands.
The Soko Islands are a group of islands in the Southwestern corner of Hong Kong waters near Lantau Island. The group consists of Tai A Chau, Siu A Chau and several smaller nearby islands.
Now largely uninhabited, the islands formerly accommodated a refugee camp for Vietnamese boat people. CLP Power is currently proposing them as the site for a terminal to receive liquefied natural gas (LNG) for use in electricity generation.
This proposal is opposed by local environmental groups because the surrounding waters are an important habitat for various marine species, particularly the rare Chinese white dolphin.
Let’s hope it will never come to a development here – yet gas would have to be cleaner than the current coal fired power-station. There are other locations no doubt!
The area offers a couple of anchorages to chose from and as always, it totally depends on the wind. We were lucky that the prevailing wind and swell came in from the East. A spot in about 3m of water on the western side of Tai A Chau, the largest of the islands , provided good hold for a smooth night.
There is an old jetty nearby and a few very shallow, submerged obstacles, so be sure to check the map. Another plus of staying on this side of the island …. uninterrupted sunset viewing from the back deck.
A beautiful swimming beach can be found Siu A Chau, the northern most island. You can ride the dingy across or park right in that little bay. Good for the day, not so good for the night with an easterly swell.
Stars at night were amazing this far away from the city
#Day 3: Soko Island to Sunshine Island (near Discovery Bay)
The halfway marker of any leisurely sailing trip is always a sad moment, because its time to head back to base. We spent most of the day on the beach at Siu A Chau, swimming in absolutely crystal clear water.
I have no idea how that is possible in this area with the Pearl River Delta being so close by and the major shipping line to Macao just a mile away, but alas, maybe COVID was good for something as traffic in the area has certainly been curtailed dramatically and nature seems to have a moment to breath.
The afternoon, again, provided champagne sailing on a close-reach almost all the way to our next overnight spot. I think we got distracted by yet another beautiful settling sun, so we had to throw in one lazy tack to pass Chi Ma Wan Peninsular.
After that you sneak past Cheung Chau with it’s massive fishing fleet tugged away in the local typhoon shelter and cut between Hei Ling Chau and Sunshine Island whilst dropping the sail as the light faded away.
Sounds romantic right? We planned, and executed, an evening BBQ on the beach. But the place was infested with sandflies, smelled of dog poop and dead animals (well, I hope they were animals). Such a stark contrast to the night before. The night was smooth though and once on the boat, we managed to leave all that behind.
#Day 4: Sunshine Island to Sai Kung via Victoria Harbour and Bluff Island
The wind that has been blowing steady over the past few days almost completely disappeared overnight. It kind of suited us as we chose the last leg of our homeward journey with shelter from the strong easterlies in mind.
A trip through Victoria Harbour, is always a special event … and a stark contrast to the last couple of days.
After another swift passage through the East Lama Channel – still busy – it was “sightseeing” under motor until we popped out on the eastern end near Tung Lung Chau.
‘My Island’, the Lagoon 42 that accompanied us for the last few day, caught a fishing net in the starboard prop, so they decided to limp home on one engine to Shelter Cove.
We felt that after the concrete jungle, one more swim and a little quite time was needed before heading home. Our trusty old ‘local’, Bluff Island, served us well, yet again
It has been an amazing 4 days on the water. Sailing in Hong Kong is so diverse. It offers something for everyone.
Yes, it does get busy at times, but we have to share this resource and I think the more people go out, sail, swim or just hike to the beaches and camp, the more they realize what an amazing playground we have on our front door step.
With increased leisure activities, particularly now where people can’t leave Hong Kong due to the current travel restrictions world-wide, comes increased strain on the environment, no doubt. So its up to us to ensure we tread lightly, pick up our rubbish and treat wildlife with respect.
The key is education, not restrictions (see my previous article: Yachting, a sustainable form of toursim?). With more locals visiting the ocean paradise of Hong Kong, we finally might be able to raise it’s profile and importance to the local authorities, who seem totally oblivious to the fact that it in one of our greatest drawcards!
